Domaine de L'Ecu Orthogneiss

Domaine de L'Ecu has been ahead of the curve when it comes to sustainable viticulture. They have been certified organic since the 1970s and have held the  biodynamic Demeter certification since the late '90s. Putting aside some of the infamous, readily wise-cracked-about practices that are part of biodynamic farming - incubating manure in buried cow horns being one - Demeter wines are products of thoughtful, holistic, all-species stewardship of the vineyard. As a bonus, these ethical practices produce some of the world's most outstanding wines, often at staggeringly reasonable price points. Domaine de L'Ecu's Orthogneiss ($28.99) is a minerally, mouthwatering, savory layer cake. Made from Melon de Bourgogne grapes, the end result delivers oyster shell, white pepper, white flowers, and yellow citrus. Bright acidity provides a structural counterpoint to the otherwise formidable volume.